Monday, October 18
We caught our boat for the Oxford Canal this afternoon and began our journey north. The guy renting us the boat provided instruction on how to drive it and get it through locks. The locks are open and closed using a ratchet that opens the gates and either lets water into the lock or releases it depending on the direction you're going. You want to make sure the safety catch is down so that it doesn't suddenly unwind on you.
Our canal boat had a kitchen and table up front with bedrooms in the middle and back of the boat. Each bedroom has a double bed and bathroom with a toilet, sink and shower.
The river was very picturesque through Oxford where people have built patios and sun rooms to take advantage of the views. It's funny but duck's and swans do very little to get out of the way of our boat. In fact we may have nudged a few that didn't get out of our way in time.
We moored outside a little village by the name of Wolverton. Nicola made cocktails while Dave sliced cheese for the charcuterie board. The "dark and stormy" cocktail had rum with lime ginger soda. It seemed appropriate.
We walked into town for dinner at Jacob's pub, a few hundred metres from where we had the boat moored on the canal. While we're enjoying our before dinner beers, an older gentlemen came in with a standard schnauzer. He sits at the bar conversing with the bartender while his dog whines constantly for his attention or Winston's who we'd brought with us. The waiter brings the dog water which it proceeds to knock over with its leash. The two waiters then busy themselves cleaning up a significant amount of water off the floor while the old guy with beard continues chatting, this time with another patron. Nicola thinks he might own the pub. An asshole nonetheless.
Dinner was okay but nothing to write home about. I had a seared tuna salad but the salad was mainly boiled potatoes that had been quickly seared in a fry pan. I left them mainly uneaten. Nicola had soup and bread. She thought the bread was good. Jordan complained about her veggie burger which would leave Dave the winner of the dinner lottery with a sirloin steak beef burger.
Tuesday, October 19
Dave made cooked ham sandwiches this morning. Absolutely delicious. Then, we were on our way. The weather started out being very pleasant with the sun occasionally making an appearance in the morning. The afternoon would turn windy, rainy and a bit cold.
Jordan and I were getting quite proficient with the locks. Filling them
Emptying them. Opening them and then closing them.
We stopped for lunch at Annie's Teahouse. We moored at the only spot available along a canal lined with moored boats. Nicola discovered very quickly why the spot was open. It was right beside a hornets nest. She became the object of a relentless attack. Rather than running away she held onto the mooring rope allowing the hornets a stationary object to attack. I took the rope which allowed her to run away. Unfortunately, we didn't have antiseptic creme and we weren't able to buy some until the next day or the day after. Suffice it to say, she suffered.
Annie's Teahouse sold scones and cakes and teas and coffees. I saw no sign of Annie, just an older guy and his son. We continued on and docked just before Pigeons Lock next to a green and a t-off at the Kindlington golf course. The plan was to walk into town for a meal at the local pub. The rain that had been predicted turned into a reality and it started to come down with aplomb. We walked along a muddy pathway up from the river and past an old rock quarry where they'd mined limestone for cement. The first houses we passed were made of blond stone and palatial by British standards. Some even had gates. The Dashwood Pub where we were headed to eat was closed Dave thought till 5:30 so we did some more wandering around this town of stone houses. We passed the Oxford pub which was also closed and wouldn't open till Thursday.
We returned to the Dashwood at 5:30 where we were greeted by a middle-aged guy who'd just parked his car and was walking into the adjoining cottage. He asked if we were wanting to go to the pub to which Dave said yes. The guy said it was closed until tomorrow. We might have sworn under our breaths. Then we returned through the rain back to our boat where Dave made a delicious dinner. This was a very good day for Winston who got this long walk as well as runs along the canal.
Morning on the canal. There were no early to rise golfers out on the links. Cows graze right next to the fairway. Dave and Jordan walk beside the path while I drive the boat. Being as long as it is with a kitchen, two sleeping cabins and two three piece bathrooms, it’s a beast to steer. Once it’s headed in a direction, it’s difficult to redirect. Later in the trip, Jordan would drive it into the side of a bridge with a decisive thunk when it hit the edge of a rock wall. I remind myself to look in the direction of where I want the boat to go and not where I fear it might end up.
Our plan for the day was to continue down the canal until we reach a point to turn around. These are few in number as they require the canal be dug to nearly twice its width. There’s one quite close to where we start out and another considerably further down the canal. That’s where we decide to head. Our intention is to return to Kindlington where we will have dinner at the Dashwood which should be open on this night. The world of cars and crowded cities float far away as I navigate the canal. We could be here in the 21st century but just as easily in the 20th or even the 19th.
Jordan and Dave walking ahead as I slow to pass other boats moored along the sides of the canal. All the boats have been named some with literary references, others more personal. Names like Jim Bean and the Mrs., “Audrey Too,” “Tuppence”, “Anywhere”. Some boats are pristine with not a chip in the paint, a triangular tent over the bow for shelter during inclement weather and a solar panel on the roof. For others the colour of the paint is almost lost to the green covering of moss and reddish brown of rust that is eating it away. A stove pipe might be sticking from its roof where logs are stacked haphazardly wasn’t to be used. A solar panel or two might also occupy parts of the roof but without a frame to provide it support and direction and thereby purpose.
At the turnaround point, Jordan and I jump out of the boat to help push it around with Dave adroitly steering from the back. That night, we moor the boat beside the quarry we’d walked by the previous night. The area’s become a provincial park with a path that’s easily from the canal to the road we’d followed the previous night into town. We circumnavigate the pit where they’d once mined for silver and copper. There could even be a water at the bottom where locals swim in the summer but we couldn’t see it because the sun had already set.
We were seated at one of the few available tables at the Dashwood Pub. Nicola and Dave sat in comfy armchairs while Jordan and I sat in the wooden ones with curved backs and spindles for support. Not uncomfortable but not cushioned armchairs either. That said, I did offer the armchair to Nicola to which she happily accepted. Winston lay under the table while the lab lying on the floor beside the neighbouring table attempted to say hello. Winston interest in other dogs lacks enthusiasm and also hostility. He generally doesn’t care a whole lot in being friendly or mixing it up like Pippa and Finny.
I don’t remember a lot about the dinner except that the food and the beer were pretty good. The British have embraced the craft beer craze of North America however with the intent of appealing to the British taste for light malty beers rather than the heavier IPAs we’re used to back home.
Thursday, October 21.
We returned to Oxford today as the boat has to be returned by 9:00 am on Friday. It’s sunny and Nicola and I walk alongside the boat for a ways. We’re forced off the towpath by construction and make our way through a farmer’s field complete with cows and bulls which we are cautioned to beware of. Naturally, our feet get muddy. Our second confrontation with construction requires us to get back on the boat only the boat is beyond a point we can board without entering the construction area. They’re tarmacking the path (or perhaps it’s cement. The frames are in place and ready for pouring.) The foreman tells us to run and catch up with our boat which we proceed to do.
Jordan and Dave also walk alongside the boat with Winston in tow. Unlike our dogs, he’s generally obedient and not prone to chase other animals they happen to see along the path. I generally do a decent job of piloting the boat except we pass another boat on a wide corner of the canal and, even though it’s not an official turnaround point, I almost accomplish just that which would have meant a very long detour back up the canal so that the boat could be turned around again. The wind caught our boat as I attempted to avoid the other. With a little backing up and luck, I was able to right our course.
The low sun provided the perfect lighting for our ride into Oxford proper. Leaves on the surrounding trees glowed, reflected by the canal like a painting by Monet. Many pictures were taken.
We moored at the “College Cruisers” where we’d rented the boat. We then toured Jericho, a favourite area of Oxford for Jordan and Dave and by the number of pubs, restaurants and shops, others as well. Interspersed amongst these commercial establishments were colleges. On our final day, we would visit Magdeline College and made to realize the expanse of grounds hidden by their Gothic architecture that fronts the street. We visited the Victoria Pub with its warm wood interior and open balcony where we sat in couches in front of a couple of round tables. On the other end of the room were a group of rowdy male students obviously not on their first round of beers. Hanging on the roof was a WWI model biplane and on the roof, a reproduction of the ceiling from the Sistine Chapel except God and Man aren’t touching index fingers. They’re clinking glasses.
We had dinner at the Old Bookbinders Ale House. The walls are ceiling are covered with photographs, paintings, posters and coasters of the different beers they’ve served over the years. We enjoyed the cozy atmosphere and the British attempt at American IPAs which really weren’t bad. As a bonus, it was less than a hundred metres from where our boat was moored.
Friday, October 22, 2021
We woke early to pack up our stuff and leave the boat before 9:00 a.m. Then, it was off to Dave and Jordan’s place to pick up fresh clothing and anything else we might want to take with us on our Scottish adventure. Very fortunately, Donal had lent us their roof box for additional storage for the trip which was desperately needed. Dave and his dad had spent considerable time putting it on the roof rack just before we’d left on our canal trip.
We were off before noon on our long journey to Edinburgh. Our first stop was the Tebay Rest Area where we were able the local products and merch. Nicola was amazed by the variety of Gins. Some were even designed as snow globes in celebration for Christmas. I know my dear wife was tempted but we were in Scotland to purchase the one product for which it is famous and has given its name.
The Airbnb in Edinburgh was conveniently located however missing some essential items such as towels and a second bed. There was a large double bed in the one bedroom and a sofa bed in the living area. Unfortunately, the sofa bed was not designed for two people or two adults or even one adult however that choice was not available as the bed collapsed before that could be tested. One of the back legs broke off requiring the support of Dave’s suitcase.
After unpacking, we went out in search of a place to eat. Nothing was really open as we’d arrived late so we ordered Indian takeout. “The Taste of Delhi.” Everyone was impressed.
Saturday, October 23, 2021
We were surprised to see a canal in hilly Edinburgh which Jordan, Nicola and I followed on our walk to our first destination of the day, the surgery museum. Edinburgh was home some of the first technical innovations in surgery which dates back 500 years. The museum follows the beginnings of surgery (largely unsuccessful) to the introduction of antiseptics and hygiene practices to surgical instruments used in the past and the technical innovations of today that mostly involve the use of robots capable of greater precision than that of the human hand. These were both manipulated by hand and speech. Very cool. Should I need hip surgery, I would really like it done with the help of a robot.
We met Dave and then Matt Henderson and his new wife Gill at the Brew Lab Coffee Shop. Modern décor contrasted starkly with exterior of the century old building and original brick work inside. I’ve only met a congenial and very funny Matt. His wife was equally friendly and disarming. She has a Masters in Archeology for which she’s almost apologetic because she hasn’t been able to find a related job. Instead, she works as an athletic trainer and weight lifts after being inspired by the Olympic weightlifting in Tokyo.
Beneath the Edinburgh Castle, a number of carts were set up in a plaza to sell local wares. Dave had purchased a tartan bandana here and we stopped to look at the same. A winding medieval stone road leads up to the castle proper. This was lined with everything Scottish related from tartans to bagpipes to wool sweaters. We didn’t go in however, the large entrance provides an excellent vista of the surrounding area. I presume this was the location Edwin’ fort which dates back to the 7th century and how the city got its name.
We encountered our one and only cairn terrier atop Calton Hill that provided an even better vista than castle rock where, no surprise, the castle sits. Gill had left us by that point to return to their flat to prepare dinner.
On the way to Matt and Gill’s flat, we passed a statue of James Clerk Maxwell. Dave wanted a picture of himself in front of it and I had the temerity to ask who the heck the guy was. Only the guy responsible for the introduction of modern physics was the reply. He’s responsible for the theory of electromagnetic radiation which wasn’t terribly helpful. Wikipedia tells me that he’s responsible for the second great unification of physics, the first being Newton. Einstein’s theory of relativity and Bohr’s theory of quantum physics if that helps at all.
We stopped at a local pub where we managed an outdoor table just as a group was leaving. Matt said he hasn’t been out much since they moved to Edinburgh from Singapore. He showed us a maze that he’d created that’s different every time a person uploads it. Nicola told me he has about 58,000 Twitter followers. I was mesmerized that he was able to see the creation of a maze in code and, being me, kinda grilled him on it.
From there we walked to Matt and Gill’s flat which was just gorgeous. We shared wine before a delicious vegetarian lasagna that Gill has prepared. After dinner, Matt served us a special Scotch called “Seaweeds & Aeons & Diggin & Fire & Cask Strength.” It was extremely good and quite intoxicating at 59%. I’ve never seen it for sale. Nicola’s still trying to find out if it can be ordered.
Altogether, a very good day. It was nice to see Matt and Gill even though we weren’t the reason for the visit.
I am happy to say that Jordan and Dave me a bottle that Christmas. A lovely gift.
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